A sunset over one of one of my favorite beach spots for bonfires and sunset-watching in the Houghton area of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula: the (black stamp sand) breakers.
I stumbled across Thai Paradise in Ridgway, Colorado while en route to the Grand Junction airport after an amazing weekend spent at Telluride Blues and Brews 2010. Ridgway is tiny with just a handful of businesses, among them being an incredibly authentic Thai kitchen and a liquor store. Good enough for me. It’s an incredibly local roadside gem with an old Thai couple cooking typical Thai dishes behind the beautiful counter adorned with chopsticks and seashells and pillow-covered seating areas in the back. Colorful and friendly and delicious.
I had a traditional spicy green curried chicken dish and a lemongrass and coconut soup that they kindly and graciously served even though they’d closed just minutes before I parked under an approaching storm. Being a lover of Thai, I can make claim that this was one of the best Thai meals I’ve ever had- all tucked away off of a quiet Colorado highway. There is no website for this magical little place, but if driving between Telluride and Grand Junction, make time to stop into this charming and promising hole-in-the wall just off of Colorado Highway 62. You won’t be disappointed.
By: Ashley Halligan
Herman Produce Stand in Palisade, Colorado; Autumn 2010
Some of Herman Produce’s amazing autumn offerings. Peaches and pear butter were among my favorite finds.
By: Ashley Halligan
Check out www.ohiostreetfood.com.
Founded by some friends of mine I grew up with in, you guessed it, Ohio, these guys are taking on the task of covering Ohio’s mobile food industry. From what we saw on a recent trip to Columbus, it looks as though street food is on the up and up there just as it is down here in ATX. They’re smart guys, smart with impressive senses of humor, smart with impressive senses of humor and fun, too. So support them. The end.
Droves of people visit the Canaan Valley area in West Virginia area during all four seasons for scenic hiking, mountain biking, skiing, and other general outdoor pleasures. Many of these visitors also take time to explore the tiny adjacent mountain town of Davis, WV–population 600ish–with it’s single grocery store and bank, wonderful places to eat (a.k.a. Hellbenders; more on that later) and even more wonderful residents and passers-through. What many people don’t know is that if they continued on just a few more miles to the next tiny mountain town, Thomas, W.V.–population 400ish–they would stumble upon a rare gem called The Purple Fiddle Café, Brews and Stage.
My best friend’s parents (Editor’s Note: Coincidentally, I know these people. And they are fantastic. This should, perhaps, be indicative of the kinds of people here) are some of the few permanent residents of the Canaan area and so we have a summer tradition of visiting the area for long and relaxing getaways. Every summer we hike, eat, drink, and repeat on a daily basis. In our minds those few days are what we live for. The only thing that breaks our routine is The Purple Fiddle, or the peak of Thomas, W.V. night life. Despite its remote and sparse permanent population, Tucker County has a ridiculously active music scene that draws professional and nationally touring musicians from across the state and beyond.
The Purple Fiddle is a restaurant and music venue that offers more than your standard country and bluegrass fare. Rock, reggae, blues, folk–you name it, it’s been played here. It’s even a family-friendly place, so feel free to bring the rug-rats as long as you can keep them quiet. Kidding. This is a place where kids can feel free to be loud and crazy along with the adults.
Once the music starts, the atmosphere is contagious. People dance and drink and laugh and bond over the music and the small town camaraderie. There are dozens of brew choices on the menu–and you can never try just one. If you decide to retreat for some fresh air, there is an attached outdoor area stage-left though on a typical Friday or Saturday night it’s probably more crowded than the interior. Some bands draw big enough crowds that it feels like the whole town is there at once… so wear some deodorant for god’s sake.
John and Kate Bright, the extremely kind and friendly owners of The Purple Fiddle, live in the upstairs portion of the building and work hard to maintain a welcoming and entertaining environment for everyone. Along with the eclectic décor, there is a bit of a country store feel too, as they offer some local novelty items in addition to the band merchandise being sold.
The word on the street is the staff affiliated with the The Purple Fiddle may start recording and producing some of its many traveling artists so if you are already a fan keep an eye out. The Purple Fiddle is easily the heart of this artsy mountain community and every trip I take to Canaan will be punctuated with a stop at the Fiddle.
By: Megan Longfellow
Oh my. Oh my, oh my, oh my. We have not told you very many stories lately, have we? We have been eerily quiet over here on The Anti Tourist front. This you must know. But know this as well: our silence can be undeniably credited to our relocation. From New York City to Austin, our headquarters have traveled with us as we’ve migrated and sought a warmer winter for 2010/2011. And warmer, it is. We like it that way. Meanwhile, we’re brainstorming the makeovers for the site we have in mind and we’re making more thrift store shopping trips than Ikea ones in an effort to furnish our office space with more spirit and less cookie-cutter. In the meantime, I put together this piece for National Geographic recently on the local farm-to-table food scene in Columbus. Shockingly, Columbus has got it all over many other cities who try and fail to support each other. Amazed at the success Columbus is having with this movement, I wrote this piece.
Growing up in Marietta, Ohio, Columbus was the “big city.” My mom would force us all into the car on Saturdays and we’d head to the JCPenney outlet store on the outskirts of the town. I remember dozing off to the soothing voices of NPR storytellers on the drive to Columbus. I dozed off on the drive back home usually, too. But that was because my entire family had just binged at the nearest all-you-can-eat buffet. The freshness or origin of the food at these joints wasn’t ever really in question. We were a family of five on a budget and food was food.
As high school graduation neared, most of my peers had already chosen to stay in Columbus and attend Ohio State. I however went to New York City, in step with the “Midwestern Girl Follows Dreams” cliche, and dismissed Columbus as a slow-lane college town, cookie-cut from the same dough as every other town between New York City and Los Angeles. And of course I thought that. I was 18 and uninformed.
The unfortunate thing is that it took me the better part of a decade to blink an eye at the city of Columbus again. After a recent thorough touring of Columbus’ culinary delights, however, I now know there was plenty else to eat. Plenty.
Read the rest of the piece on the National Geographic blog. Read it, comment on it, let the folks over there know you like it when The Anti Tourist’s voice is heard.
Be back soon with content.
By: Elizabeth Seward
Lewes, Delaware (pronounced “Lew-is”), is a quiet town situated at the confluence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Delaware Bay (an area referred to as Cape Henlopen), most famously known for being the “first town in the first state.” It’s a cozy and picturesque town with mossy-roofed cottages nestled between historic buildings still baring the marks of Revolutionary War cannons and ship-filled inlets. It’s a walking town, easily navigated in a long day’s stroll, meandering through the Historic Complex of the Lewes Historical Society, a block filled with the well-maintained and original buildings of significance to Lewes’ history- schoolhouses and a (Greek Revival styled) doctor’s office and other such buildings, all so perfectly charming (and truthfully old) that it could easily serve as a 19th century movie set. There are graves at St. Peter’s Episcopal Church (founded in 1681) dating to the 1600s, a walking labyrinth, homemade ice cream at King’s Ice Cream, and an abundance of fresh seafood. Lewes is historic, beautiful, and wholesome– and sometimes that combination is a necessary escape.
Lewes is a place for relaxing. A place to rise early, embrace the morning with a cup of coffee or hot tea over an Atlantic sunrise, enjoy a traditional home-cooked breakfast, toss a blanket upon the beach at Cape Henlopen State Park for an afternoon nap, before returning to Lewes for an evening stroll and dinner in one of the town’s small yet delicious restaurants. It’s a place to retire early too. The town is quiet by 10 p.m. This is relaxing.
The Blue Water House, an artsy inn in Lewes, is a lovely establishment to spend your mornings and evenings, aside colorful paintings and sculptures, well-styled rooms (the Hemmingway Suite is simply enchanting, in an anomalously sophisticated way), cozy outdoor seating areas backdropped by vintage canoes, interesting art pieces, and comfy chaise lounges.
The amenities are simple and ever-appreciated. Buckets of beer varieties and bottles of wine are left about in the communal dining area at cocktail hour, all amidst antique furniture, a fully stocked kitchen, and windows overlooking the bay. And breakfast is served communally at the community of kitchen tables all while jolly kitchen folk whip up hams and pastries and teas and coffees and juices and pancakes and everything else that makes breakfast perfect. There are complimentary cruiser bikes as well as house umbrellas and beach towels to make days spent adventuring more convenient. There’s even a telescope on the patio. The Blue Water House is the perfect place to call home while visiting Lewes.
And for dinner? I highly recommend Half Full, an innovative pizza and wine bar in the town’s historic center. Half Full has a pretty extensive wine & beer list and seasonally creative pizzas on both the always-changing house menu and the daily specials. We had two- one baring fresh lump crab, Manchego cheese, and sweet corn and another with house-made prosciutto and asparagus. On the current fall menu, try the Fall Veggie (butternut squash creme, sauteed mushrooms, Swiss chard, Gruyere) or the Pork and Apple (roasted garlic sauce, braised pork, Gala apple, Gruyere)- both for $11. I suppose I left out that Half Full’s prices are reasonable too.
Warsaw and neighboring community Winona Lake are only a couple hours from Chicago, which is a town we loved. It’s a little in the middle of nowhere, and known mainly for the research and development and manufacture of orthopedics—companies like DePuy, Zimmer, and Biomet are headquartered here. That said, there’s also a beautiful lake, a local-centric economy, farm stands and markets, and a great community feeling. There’s even a large Mexican population, which raises the palatability of the cuisine considerably.
Cerulean Restaurant is a sushi and tapas place on Winona Lake with a quickly rotating beer selection—according to our hosts, the 6 taps were completely different two weeks ago. My pear cider was crisp and lively, similar to some Rieslings I’ve had, and my companions assured me their beers were great too—not that I would know from personal experience, since beer is packed with all kinds of gluten and I am not supposed to have that, moan, whine, moan again. In any case I had some great homemade beef jerky there as well as some incredible tapas.
The Bak Efe (just say Bay Café), also right on the lake, has great coffee and cookies which tasted like hot fudge went outside and laid in the sun. Also: blueberry scones, almond cream cheese Danish, and the best pizza this side of the Mississippi. Ok, one of the best pizzas this side of the Mississippi.
Get your ice cream next door at Kelainey’s, a very cute “shoppe” and perfect for an ice cream fix.
Eagle Creek Farm’s market has local, raw milk, local cheese, meat, and produce, and a very sweet proprietress. Stop by for an authentic, undoctored taste of rural Indiana.
On the other side of town, you cannot miss Los Gordos. Of the dozens of Mexican places in town, this was my favorite, a delicate mixture of old diner, corner tex-mex place, lounge, bar, and family restaurant.
The food is great though, with all the Mexican staples—cheesy enchiladas, cheesy burritos, cheesy fajitas, nachos with cheese, agua de horchata (or hibiscus or tamarind), Negra Modelo, more rice and beans than anyone could ever eat, ever, etc. El Gordo himself runs the place, and he’s gentleman. To be honest I don’t know if the place is named after him but whatever. This is my favorite place in town.
By: Ben Britz
The July 18th 2010 TAT story from Ben and Elizabeth about the Yellow Deli People sounded eerily familiar. I knew the name of the group before it was ever mentioned in the article: The Twelve Tribes Commonwealth of Israel. Three summers ago, I stayed with the same group for a few days in Rutland, Vermont while in the process of completing a 5-month Appalachian Trail thru-hike. They run an adorable hostel upstairs from their business, The Back Home Again Café and Juice Bar, and offer a “work for stay” option. This means that for perhaps 1-2 hours of work (washing dishes, sweeping, peeling potatoes, whatever), we are able to have a roof over our heads and eat well without paying a dime. These deals are highly attractive to the thru-hiking community, who would do just about anything for the promise of a hot meal, a shower, and a real mattress.
The weather during the first half of Vermont had oscillated between cold drizzle and oppressive heat, and after one of our more interesting hitchhiking experiences, my hiking partner and I arrived at the café exhausted and hungry. Upon entering, we were struck by the atmosphere of the place: intricate, hand-carved wooden beams, exposed brick, cozy lighting and with hanging plants everywhere…definitely an other-worldly Middle Earth sort of vibe, with the elfin community members happily running around with serving trays. We were greeted with warm smiles, and promptly led toward the showers (stocked with intoxicating homemade lavender and tea tree soap). The men and women were conservatively dressed, and I immediately felt self-conscious in my clingy, sweaty tank top. I knew we must’ve reeked, and yet they invited us to join their family for dinner. They were amazingly nice people, but I’ll admit I was a little unnerved by their serenity. What is their deal?
There was a variety of reading material in the bunkrooms for our perusal: things about the homemade soap, menu choices for the café below, and…what’s this?…pamphlets about following Yahshua with all of one’s being? Ah, the light bulb went off in my head. The Twelve Tribes Community, it seems, is a branch of fundamental Christianity trying to return to as close to a traditional Jewish lifestyle as possible. This includes, but is not limited to, communal living, strict gender roles, homeschooling and labor for the children, shared finances and possessions, Hebrew names given for all community members, and universal hairstyles and clothing. After a few hours of working side-by-side, we were on a first name basis with several of the community members and our interactions felt comfortable enough to ask them some questions about their path: why the traditional, regimented dress code? Why did you join the group and how does your family feel about this? They responded patiently and smiling sweetly. They seemed acutely aware of cult-like perceptions outsiders have of the group. Whatever their reasons, they seemed really happy. I know I couldn’t handle it, but to each their own, I guess.
Travelers take note, the people here are interesting, welcoming, and open to questions, and the food is delicious and wholesome. We were told that we should look up other community locations if we were ever in need of a place to stay. Just be prepared to volunteer in the kitchen (or wherever they need help), in addition to experiencing the magnetic pull of that peace-and-love feeling…which may creep you out a bit upon escaping the place.
By: Maribeth Latvis
Europa Spa is perched on the top of a hill overlooking the river that runs through Morgantown, a nice spot for a spa, and which yet does not boast of many. Though Hope, the owner, started this spa over 22 years ago, it’s only recently moved from its former location at the Seneca Glass Factory downtown to its new spot, the old chamber of commerce. Close the door behind you as you walk in, and all of a sudden you’re no longer on a busy street in Morgantown but in a closed-off pleasure dome—perhaps a scaled-down version of Kublai Khan’s, but a delight nonetheless.
Hope has been in the spa and salon business for over 40 years, beginning in Albuquerque, New Mexico at a hair salon. As time passed, she became more and more enamored with the holistic and healing benefits of spa treatments, and later on she started Morgantown’s first full service spa at the old Seneca Glass Factory.
In its present state in the old chamber of commerce building, they offer, in addition to the hair treatments at the salon, full-body massage, facials, pedicures, manicures, makeup, and even yoga downstairs (see everything they offer here and here). Her expert staff will treat you to a bit of bliss while you retreat inwardly, luxuriating, to your own private place of laughter and forgetting.
By: Ben Britz